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Complete Instructions 

FIRST EDITION 



PAUL KENDA & CO. 

621 South 15th Street, TACOMA, WASH. 



Copyright 1912 by Paul Kenda 



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©Cl.A308fi53 






TO THE STUDENT 



FOLLOW VERY CAREFULLY THE INSTRUCTIONS 

AS GIVEN 



Make as mucK as you can of eacK of the first 
twenty-six patterns in order to learn tliem tkorouglily, 
as all of tlie more artistic and complicated patterns de- 
pend upon tkese first twenty-six. 

INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL OF A. C. L 




MATERIAL REQUIRED FOR MAKING LACES 



(1) Basket — This is to rest the pillow in and is also a convenient 
place for keeping the spindles, also the lace as it is made. 

(2) The Pillow — This is provided of proper shape and size aronnd 
which to stretch the pattern. 

(3) The Spindles — The thread is wound on these spindles, which 
are held in each hand, holding them with the bulb between the thumb 
and first and second fingers. 

(4) The Pattern — The straight edge must always be on the right. 
Fasten the pattern at one end upon the pillow with three or four pins 
and then go clear around the pillow with the pattern and fold pattern 
under, to match figure where pattern commenced. Thus you will be 
enabled to make several yards without changing. 



As we cannot furnish pillow large enough for the larger size of 
centerpieces, ovals and edges, etc., work the half that we furnish and 
then take the pins out of the pattern, lay the lace on the other side 
of the pillow, place pins again in pattern, as if through the center of 
the whole lace, and proceed as from start. 

(5) Pins — About 200 pins are required in all. Set the pins on 
the points on the patterns indicated "start." Do not pull the pins out 
of the pattern until you come once around the pillow each time. 

(6) The Reel — This serves to wind up the thread upon the spindles. 
To start to wind — take spindle in right hand, place end of thread along 
the spool, place thumb of right hand on thread, and wind thread a few 
times around the spool, being careful always to wind over the spindle. 
Then place the spindle in the reel and fill the spool with thread. 

Then make a knot so the thread Avill not unwind itself, as follows: 
Take thread in left hand and spindle in right, as usual; take -thread 
under second finger and wind it over the first finger and then insert 
the spool only through the loop thus formed ; take the fingers out and 
tighten the loop. 

(7) The Thread — The number of the thread used in each pattern 
is indicated on the pattern, as well as number of pairs used in the braid. 
Flax or linen thread makes the nicest laces. If you want to make these 
laces of rough silk, gold or silver thread, the thickness of the thread 
must be the same as for linen thread, but will have a different manu- 
facturer's number. 

SUB-DIVISIONS OF LACES 

Series A. Pointed laces show every figure in the same direction 
and serve for trimming the edges of garments, mostly. 

Series B. Inlaid Laces — Where the direction of the scallop alter- 
nates. This kind of lace serves for sewing in between the cloth. For 
example, in waists, squares, etc. 

Series C. Edges — Edges serve principally for decorating bed pillows 
and pillows in general. 

Series D. Squares. 

Series E. Scarfs. 

Series F. Centerpieces (Doilies). 

Series G. Ovals. 

Laces named Sub D, E, F and G are used principally for decorating 
tables, sideboards and pianos. 

Series H. Collars for ladies and children, (a) for waists; (b) for 
under-garments. 

Series I. Cuffs for ladies. 

THE METHODS 
Braids, Ornaments and Connections 

Pattern 1. The Twist — Set the pin at point A, hang on it two pairs 
of spindles by the thread. The thread ends of two spindles are tied 
together and we call this simply one pair. 



Turn each pair once to the left, that is, the right spindle of a pair 
over the left, cross the center, that is, cross the left inner spindle over 
the right inner spindle, pull firmly tight, turn each pair once to left again, 
cross the center again, tighten, and continue this operation until point B 
is reached. Set the pin between the two pairs at B and continue as 
shown after point A. Then go to C, D, etc., making the zigzag as long 
as you wish. 

This twist is used not only in making the zigzag, but also in many- 
other instances, as for example, for a straight line between A and B. 

Pattern 2. The Picot Edged Braid — Place 4 pins at upper end of 
braid of Pattern No. 2, one at each of the four numbers. 

Hang two pairs of spindles on pin No. 1, two pairs on each of the 
center pins and one pair on No. 4, making seven pairs in all together. 

Start with two pairs on right pin, or Pin No. 1 ; turn right hand 
pair twice to the left, left pair only once, then cross the center by 
always placing the left over the right. Turn right pair twice again to 
left and left pair once, cross center as before. 

Then lay aside the right hand pair by tossing over the pillow loosely. 
Take the left hand pair into right hand and take the top pair from 
No. 2 pin in left hand. . 

Turn right hand pair once to the left — the turning is done always 
to the left; in the future we will say simply turn once or twice — cross 
center as before, turn both pairs once, cross center and lay aside right 
pair. Take the pair from the left hand into right hand and take next 
pair of Pin No. 2 in left hand. Cross center, turn both pairs once, cross 
center and lay aside right pair. Take over into right hand the pair 
from the left and into left hand the top pair from Pin No. 3. Cross center, 
turn each pair once. Cross center and lay aside the right pair. Change 
hands again, take into left hand the next pair from Pin No. 3. Cross 
center, turn both pairs once. Cross center, lay right pair aside, change 
hands and take into left hand the last pair of pairs from Pin No. 4. 

Turn left pair twice and right pair once, cross the center, turn left 
once and right pair once and cross center. 

Place a pin on first dot on left side of pattern between the two 
pairs of threads, turn left pair twice and right pair once, cross center, 
turn each pair once again, cross center again, and lay aside left hand 
pair. Then reverse the operation by taking right pair into left hand, 
and into right hand the next pair to right, turning left pair once and 
crossing center. Turn both pairs once again, cross center and lay aside 
the left hand pair. Change the pair from right hand into left, take up 
next pair to right, cross center, turn both pairs once again, cross center 
and so on until the right hand dot is reached. Always remember that 
the pattern contains two border pairs — one on each side — four center 
pairs and one woof pair, and also that you must always turn the woof 
pair once before leaving the center pairs and connecting with any of 
the border pairs. 

To finish and tie up any braid, go to one side of the braid and tie 
the next to last pair into a simple knot twice, then the last and extreme 
pair, then the next pair inside, and so on, until all pairs are vied up. 
Cut the threads off right below the knots. 



Pattern 3. Plain Braid (with points inside of the line)— Set four 
pins at the extreme end of the pattern as in Pattern No. 2. Use seven 
pairs of thread as in No. 2. Start with two pairs on Pin No. 1. Turn 
each pair twice, cross center, turn each pair once again, cross center, 
lay aside right hand pair, take left pair into right hand. 

Take top pair from Pin No. 2 into left hand, turn right pair once,, 
cross center, turn both pairs once, cross center, lay aside right pair, 
change hands, take next pair from Pin No. 2 into left hand, cross center, 
turn both pairs once, cross center and lay aside right hand pair. Repeat 
this until last center pair or pair from Pin No. 3 has been used. 

Then take pair on Pin No. 4 in left hand, turn right hand pair once 
and left hand pair twice, cross center, turn both pairs once again, cross 
center again and lay aside left pair, set pin so that it comes between the 
pair next to last and the next center pair; change the pair from right 
hand into left hand and take next center pair in right hand, turn left 
band pair once, and if thread number is 60-90 twice, cross center, turn 
both pairs once, cross center, lay aside left pair and take next center 
pair. Repeat until right hand side is reached, and set pin in same way 
as on left side. After setting the pin, turn the pair next to last twice, 
cross the center, turn both pairs once, cross the center, and lay right 
hand pair aside. Proceed as usually. Finish and tie braid as in Pat- 
tern No. 2. 

Pattern 4. Right side plain, left side picot edged braid, is a com- 
bination of No. 2 and No. 8 Patterns, only, and is mostly used in all 
patterns as edge. In order to make it quite clear, the method follows: 

Set the four usual pins, with 7 pairs of thread. Start at right hand. 
Turn each pair twice, cross center, turn both pairs once again, cross cen- 
ter, lay aside right hand pair, take left pair into right hand, take top 
pair from Pin No. 2 into left hand, turn right pair once, cross center, 
turn both pairs once, cross center, lay aside right pair, change hands, 
take next pair from Pin No. 2 into left hand, cross center, turn both 
pairs once, cross center, and lay aside right hand pair. Repeat this until 
last center pair or pair from Pin No. 3 has been used. Then take into left 
hand the pair from Pin No. 4. 

Turn left pair twice and right pair once, cross center, turn both 
pairs once and cross center. Place a pin on first dot on left side of Pat- 
tern between the two extreme pairs of threads, turn left pair twice and 
right pair once, cross center, turn both pairs once again, cross center, and 
lay aside left hand pair ; then reverse the operation, by taking right pair 
into left hand and into right hand the next pair to right turning left 
pair once and crossing center. Turn both pairs and so on until you 
reach the extreme right pair. Turn left hand pair once and right hand 
pair twice, cross center, turn both pairs once again, cross center, lay 
aside right hand pair, set pin between next to last pair and the next 
center pair. Change the pair from left hand into right hand and take 
next center pair into left hand. Turn right pair once, cross center, turn 
both pairs once, cross center, and continue, as stated, several times, with 
the woof pair across the braid. Tie up in same way as in previous two 
patterns. 



Pattern 5. Wound Braid — Set pins at points Nos. 1. 2 and 3. hang 
on Pin No. 1 two pairs ; on Pin No. 2 one pair, on Pin No. 3 one pair. 
Start with the two pairs at Pin No. 1. Turn both pairs once, cross cen- 
ter, turn both pairs once again, cross center again, lay right hand pair 
aside, change hands, take pair from Pin No. 2 in left hand, turn each 
pair once, cross center, turn both pairs again, cross center again and 
lay right hand pair aside. Change pair from left into right hand, take 
into left hand the pair from Pin No. 3. Turn both pairs once, cross 
center, turn both pairs again, cross center again, and set pin between 
the two pairs. Continue the operation in the opposite direction until the 
pin is reached, and set the pin as in pieot edged braid. 

Pattern 6. The Filling has for its purpose the tilling out of the 
space between the scallops and the straight braid. We show and explain 
the tilling in the form of a parallelogram. Set the i)in at 1, hang onto 
it two pairs, make sufificient twist until you reach the point on the right 
side of the fish. Set the pin and wind the thread next to pin once around 
it to the right. Continue the twist to reach the end of the first fish. Set 
pin between the two pairs at 2 and continue with twist toward the point 
of the second fish. Set pin, wind thread once around it and proceed to 
Point 3. Set pin again and proceed in the same way toward 4, 5, 6, 7. 
8. 9, 10, 11, 12 and 13. From 13 return to 12, then to'l4, 15, 11, 16, 17, 8. 
18, 19, 5, 20, 21, 2, 22, 23, 3, 20, 24, 6, 18, 25, 9, 16, 26. 12, 14, 15. 
11, 16, 17, 8, 18, 19. 5, 20, 21, 2, 22, 23, 3, 20, 24, 6, 18, 25, 9. 16. 
26, 12, 11, 10, 9, 8, 7, 6, 5, 4, 3, 2 and tie at 1. On returning to complete 
the entire fish, proceed in the same Avay. Instead of setting pin at points 
where pin has been set, connect with crochet needle, by passing one 
thread through picot after pulling out the pin. Insert the second spindle 
through the loop, thus formed, and pull firmly tight and set the pin back 
again. 

This connection we call the "crochet connection." At points 1. 21. 

24, 7, 17, 26, 13, 14, 15, 10, 25, 19, 4, 23 and 22, do not connect with crochet 
needle, but go simply around the pin. You connect these two ends of 
fishes to the braid of scallop or to the straight braid. These fishes are 
empty. To distinguish Avhere empty fishes and where full fishes are to 
be made, we set by empty fishes, two points at each side about in the 
middle, while the full fish, which we will explain below, has no points at 
the side. 

Pattern 7. The Fish (full) — Set the pin at 1 and hang on it two 
pairs. Turn each pair once, cross center, then turn the left hand pair 
twice, cross center, turn right hand pair twice, cross center, and so on. 
It requires from 15 to 30 times to repeat this to finish one fish ; according 
to the length. The fish is widened out toward the middle by simply 
pulling the extreme spindles outward left and right, each time, leaving 
the center pair always loose, and narrowed to a point at the end by 
pulling both pairs toward you as you approach it. Set the pin at 2 
between the two pairs and proceed in same way with the second fish. 
Turn the pillow so that the fish you are making points always from you. 
Then follow according to numbers to 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13" 10, 
14, 8, 15, 6, 16, 4, 17, 2, 18, 19, 17, 20, 16, 21, 15, 22, 14, 23, 13. 24. 

25. 12 and 26. By turning, connect with crochet needle at 10. 8. 6. 



4 and 2, and also at 17. 16, 15, 14. 13 and 12. It reciiiires considerable 
practice to make this fish nicely shaped. It is used to a great extent 
as an ornament in stars and inner ornaments. 

Pattern 8. The Double Star — Set the pin at 1 and start with the 
fish toward 2 on the small circle inside the star. Set the pin at 2 and 
start the fish toward 3. Set the pin at 3 between the two pairs and start 
with another fish toward 2. On reaching Point 2 again, pnll out the pin 
and connect through this picot with the crochet needle, and then set 
the pin back at 2 in that same picot through which you connected. 

Place another pin in between the two pairs at Point 4 and continue 
with fish toward 5. 

Continue with all the fishes until you reach 2 again, connect witli 
crochet needle and proceed to 1, where you make crochet connection 
again and tie each pair twice. 

The line from 1 to 2, from 2 to 3, from 3 to 4 each represents one 
fish, thus making the star on the pattern a double star in the lace. 

The single star has no circle in the center and must be worked out 
by starting it twice, for four-pointed star, and three times for a six- 
pointed star, making always crochet connections in the center. 

The number of the thread in the star always corresponds to the 
number in the braid. 

Pattern 9. The Bohemian Connection— Set at point 1. a pin witl> 
four pairs of thread on it. Hold in each hand two pairs, one pair as 
described already, the second pair between the second and third fingers. 
Turn each of the pairs once to left and cross the center pairs. Lay aside 
the two pairs in the left hand and start twist with the tw^o pairs in the 
right hand toward 2, set the pin at 2 and proceed with twist toward 4. 
Lay these two pairs aside. Start twist with the two pairs you laid aside 
previously from the left hand. On reaching Point 3, set the pin and turn 
with twist toward 4. When twist is sufficiently long, take these two 
pairs into left hand, and in right hand the two pairs of the other twist 
from 2. To connect right twist to left, cross the left inner pair over the 
right pair, then turn each pair of pairs once, — -the right over the left 
pair — and cross the center pair of pairs again. This is the so-called 
"Bohemian Connection." Continue in the same way tow^ard 5 and 6 
and so on. 

Pattern 10. Place four pins at beginning of first semi-circle. Hang' 
two pairs on right pin, two pairs on each center pin and one pair on left. 

Take two right pairs. Turn each pair once, cross center, turn each 
pair again, cross center again and lay aside right pair. Change the left 
pair into right hand and take first center pair in left hand, turn right 
pair twice , cross center, turn both pairs once, cross center again, lay 
right pair aside. Change hands. Take next center pair in left hand, 
cross center, turn both pairs once, cross center and lay right pair aside. 
Continuing until last center pair is used. Take pair from left pin, and 
turn the woof pair twice, cross center, turn both pairs once, cross center 
and lay aside left hand pair. 

Take right pair into left hand. 

Take center pin out and set it between this pair and next center pair, 
which pair take in right hand. Turn left pair once, cross center, turn 



both pairs once, cross center and lay left pair aside. Continue until last 
center pair is used. After all center pairs are laid aside to left, turn 
both remaining pairs twice to left, cross center, turn both once, cross 
center, and set pin between these two pairs. Turn right hand pair 
twice, left hand j)air once, cross center, turn both pairs again, cross cen- 
ter, and lay right pair aside. Take next center pair in left hand, after 
changing the left pair into right hand. Turn right hand pair twice, cross 
center and continue until last center pair is used. Lay aside the tra- 
versing or woof pair and start back with next two center pairs. Con- 
tinuing as in plain braid until right side is again reached, when woof 
pair is again laid aside. Continue until the last pin of semi-circle or pin 5 
is placed, and do this without connection to center. When left hand is 
again reached, from 5 to center, turn woof pair once and take into left 
hand the pair which has not been used since the semi-circle was begun. 
Cross center, turn both pairs once, cross center and lay left pair aside. 
Turn the right hand pair once and tie it. 

The operation is reversed for the next semi-circle. 

Plain edge braid to connect to semi-circles: Start as for plain edge 
braid on right pin. and continue across the four center pairs as usual. 
Turn last pair on left once when left side of braid is reached, and instead 
of setting a pin, take crochet needle and pulling upper thread of this 
pair through the adjoining picot on edge of circular braid. Pass the 
spindle containing second thread through the loop thus made by first 
thread and pull up firmly. This ties securely the edge of plain braid to 
the circular braid. 

Take next pair in right hand, turn both once, cross center, turn 
both pairs once again, cross center and lay aside left pair. Continue as 
for plain braid. 

When center of circle in circular braid is reached, and the distance 
is greater from edge of plain braid to picots near the center of circle, 
turn the threads three times and pull the thread through the two center 
picots at one time. After tying, turn the pair of threads three times again 
before proceeding with plain braid. 

Pattern 11. Start as in Pattern No. 4. To turn the square corner 
of the braid, work the same as in forming the semi-circles of the circular 
braid in Pattern No. 10, except that the woof threads are turned three 
times when forming the diagonal of the square, in order to cover the 
greater distance at that point. As soon as the corner is turned, form 
picots on both edges for joining of two sides of braid and also to attach 
the open fishes, which are to be made between the scallops. When the 
cross bar in center of first semi-circle is reached, form a long picot to 
reach to center pin by turning the woof thread 6 times. Place the pin 
in loop thus formed and continue the semi-circle. When the third semi- 
circle is reached, form another long picot in same way. When fifth 
semi-circle is reached, join the long picot to the opposite one on first 
semi-circle. While forming the sixth semi-circle, the point is reached 
where two open fishes are started from. These are made by using the 
pair of threads that is laid aside when picot is formed. Turn both 
pairs once, cross center, turn once again, cross center, — continuing four 
times, or until twist is long enough to reach the first pin and wind the 



outside thread once around it. Continue the twist again four times to 
reach to cud of first fish. Set a pin and continue with second fish. In- 
stead of connecting to end of first fish, form a long twist to reach around 
the pin in picot. and to the pin in center of last half of first fish. 

When beginning of first fish is again reached, tie to the end of fish 
thus completing both fishes. 

Continue with remainder of semi-circle. When the seventh or last 
semi-circle is reached, join the long picot to the opposite one on third 
semi-circle. 

Before finishing the seventh semi-circle, begin joining picots to those 
of opposite side, continuing the joining until the second square corner 
is reached. Connect the Avoof threads to picot on first corner and then 
set the pin back again. Then turn both pairs of threads once, cross 
center, turn again, cross center, and set a second pin in second corner 
beside the one in first corner, as in plain braid. 

Continue straight braid until the place for joining fish is reached. 
Tie to it by passing the loop under the long twist and through the picot 
between the fish and the braid. Continue the second scallop. 

Pattern 12. First make the star. Then start the braid as in Pattern 
4, making it i)lain on right side and picot edged on left side. i\Iake the 
corner as in Pattern 11. When the star is reached, connect it to the 
braid. Continue the braid around the circular scallop, connecting it to 
the star whenever its points are reached. 

When Point 1 is reached, begin a tAvist by using woof pair with 
extreme right pair. Continue twist to Point 2 and set a pin between 
the two pairs of threads. Continue to Points 3, 4, 5. 6, 7, then back to 
4, and connect with crochet needle, without turning either pair of threads, 
then to 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, to 9 again, connect then to 3 and 1, connecting 
with crochet needle. Continue with braid around second square corner, 
as in Pattern No. 11, and connect with Points 12. 11, 10, 8. 7, 6, 5 and 2 in 
turn as they are reached. 

Zig Zag Edge — Start at (a) with 4 pairs and proceed with the right 
hand pair to (b) and (c) and Avith the left hand pair to (d). set pin and 
proceed to (c). At (c) connect Avith Bohemian Connection as stated in 
Pattern No. 9. Continue tAvist to nearest pins, by ahvays connecting the 
lowest points to circular braid with crochet connection. 

Pattern 13. Start as shoAvn on Pattern 10, and start filling as soon 
as you reach the left hand side of the pattern, using Avoof pair as in 
Pattern 11. 

The rest of the pattern is very simple, being only a repetition of 
previous patterns in other form. In this pattern, do not make a circle in- 
side of the star, but set a pin in the center and Avork across the pin. When 
eleA^en fishes are made, connect them Avith the crochet needle and proceed 
to last fish. 

Pattern 14. Start as shoAvn in Pattern 10. To connect the end of 
braid Avith the beginning, reach the last pin on the right side of the 
braid, lay aside both pairs, turn the extreme left hand pair once and 
connect wuth the crochet needle through the picot Avhich Avas made at 



starting- on the left side of the braid. Tie np the pair twice as described 
in the finish of the plain and picot edged braid pattern No. 4. Continue 
to connect with crochet needle the remaining pairs of the center by tying 
each pair up twuce. Turn next to last pair once to the left and connect 
with the crochet needle to the picot below, and tie it up twice. The 
extreme right hand pair has to be tied up. only. 

This finish is to apply to all ties of braid as well as of circular braid, 
so as to connect the starting point of the braid. 

Start the circular braid as described in Pattern 10. and proceed 
around until the points of beginning are reached and complete as de- 
scribed above in this pattern. 

Pattern 15, Commence with first at (a), go to (b), (c), (d), finish 
the star; when at (c) again go with twist to (e), (f), (g), and so on 
around the star until you reach (c) again. Connect always to star as 
soon as you meet it. From (c) go with twist to (m), set the pin, go to 
(e), connect at (e) with crochet needle below twist and pass the spindle 
through the loophole above the twist. Then go to (n), set the pin and 
continue as stated above. Continue the third circle of twist without 
connecting, as you will connect afterwards, as stated above, for the 
second circle of twist. Finally, start the tier of fishes and the last circle 
of twist. 

Then start with the braid and connect it with central filling wher- 
ever they meet. 

At the last, work the filling above the straight braid. 

Pattern 16. Finish the filling first, then the star and the tier of fishes 
around it. Then start the braid as in all patterns and connect it to the 
filling, wherever you meet it. Connect it in the same way around the star. 
Make the single fish from the braid. When you come to Point 1, instead 
of setting the pin, start twist to 2, set pin. go to 3, set pin, go to 4, set 
pin, stdrt fish toward 5, set pin at 5, go with twist to 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 
always setting the pin, as shown in the filling; then return to complete 
the fish, to 11, 10, 9, 8, 7. 6 and 5, always going with tAvist around the 
pin only, as you will connect it, when coming to these points with the 
braid. 

From 5 go to 3, making fish ; connect at 3 with crochet needle, go 
to 13, set the pin, start the fish toward 2, connect with pin, go to 14, mak- 
ing fish, set at 14 a pin, and start the filling as described above, and 
continue until you come back to 14. Connect with crochet needle and 
proceed to 1. After connecting with crochet needle in filling, always set 
the pin back in its former place. This will keep the filling spread until 
you reach it with the braid. 

Pattern 17. Start the braid at 1, as usual. On reaching 2, go to 3, 
4 and back to 2. Connect and continue with braid. The pattern is very 
simple. 

Pattern 18 and Pattern 19 do not require any explanation. 

Patterns 20 - 26 are of series (b). Have little different filling. Work 
first the scallops from one side, then from the other. 



THE CLEANING 

The cleaning of this laee shoukl always be done by hand, though a 
washboard can be used if necessary, as these laces are very strong. Laces 
can be boiled. Use only a very thin starch. 

IRONING 

The laces should be sprinkled and spread well before ironing. Iron 
the wrong side, only. 

CUTTING THE LINEN 

If linen is to be used for filling the lace, it should be marked and cut 
one-eighth of an inch too large all around the inside border. Then sew 
the linen to the border of the lace by machine or by hand. 



One copy del. to Cat. Div. 



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